After a little more cleaning, it was time for paint prep! I used Dumond Smart Strip, which was a water-based stripper that worked wonderfully. You just slather the paste on your painted surfaces and paint falls off like wet newspaper. A metal bristle brush helps with the removal.
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As many other reviewers have said, I would also recommend not to shy away from liberally covering your surfaces to strip. I had to apply and wipe a couple times to make up for the parts I didn’t cover as thoroughly.
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I finally was able to get down to the bare metal, which I had sanded with a bit of 220 and 400 grit sandpaper. Also, I had removed the “CAUTION” plate above the switch by drilling out the rivets. I also removed the Astoria badge, the Mazzer sticker, and the small metal disc behind the timer-switch knob so that I could strip and repaint the surfaces underneath.
Next step: priming!
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I decided to use two types of primer:
- First, a metal-etching primer to prepare the aluminum surface. I made 2-3 overlapping coats of different upright angles and one with the grinder on its side (to cover the bottom). Between coats, I would wait a day and lightly sand the primer with #400 sandpaper, vacuum, brush, and wipe, and pass over with tackcloth.
- Second, two coats of filler primer. This is to fill the imperfections introduced during the aluminum casting process and the several deep nicks and gouges from its use over the years.
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I’m still deciding on a color for my main (top) coat. I’ve ruled out black, white, and the pure silver-grey that comes with stock Mazzer grinders. I’m also not a fan of the garish sports car colors, as much as the powder-coating and glitter spray are impressive displays of painting. Something neutral, maybe a subtle graphite may work.